On the Trail Poachers That Illegally Capture China's Protected Songbirds.
The conservationist's gaze sweeps across miles of open meadows, hunting for signs of life in the early morning gloom.
He utters a hushed tone as the team seeks a spot to hide in the fields. Behind us, the huge urban center of Beijing has yet to wake. As we wait, we hear only the quiet of the morning.
Suddenly, as the sky begins to brighten before dawn, we hear footsteps. Illegal trappers are present.
Trapped
Overhead, billions of birds, many so small that they could rest in the palm of your hand, are journeying southward for winter.
They have benefited from the extended daylight in Siberia, or Mongolia, eating insects and fruit. As the year winds down and icy winds bring the first frosts of winter, they journey to more temperate climates to breed and eat.
The nation hosts more than 1,500 bird species, representing roughly thirteen percent of the world's total β over eight hundred of those are migratory birds. Several of the major paths they follow converge in China.
This particular field where we were, on the outskirts of the Chinese capital, is an haven for small birds β farther in and the urban landscape offer little opportunity to rest among towering rows of concrete.
It is equally attractive for the poachers and their "fine nets", so delicate you can barely see them.
A net we almost encountered was extending over a large section of the field and held up with wooden sticks. At its center, a tiny bird was fighting hard to escape, but the more it struggled, the more its claws became tangled.
This was a meadow pipit, a species under protection in China, and an important "indicator species" β that means if its numbers are thriving, so is its ecosystem.
Pursuing the Poachers
Silva, who is in his 30s, carries out this mission for free using his personal funds. He has given up on many nights of sleep to release trapped birds, and he has spent the last 10 years urging the police in Beijing to enforce the law.
"Back in 2015, there was little interest," he remarks.
So he recruited volunteers who did care and launched a group called the Beijing Migratory Bird Squad. He organized public meetings and brought in the officials of the relevant authorities. These small and persistent acts of advocacy appear to have worked. The police realized that catching poachers also led to uncovering other kinds of criminal activity.
"It became clear our goals were partially aligned," Silva says, noting that implementation remains inconsistent.
This fascination with birds began during childhood. He was raised in the 1990s in a distinct era for the city.
He remembers roaming through the fields on the city's edges where he discovered birds, frogs and snakes. "But starting from the 2000s, the transformation was dramatic."
Rapid economic growth brought a huge influx of rural workers to cities. This fast-paced development meant grasslands were seen as land for construction, not conservation areas to preserve.
This shift shocked him. The grasslands receded, as did the ecosystems they sustained.
"I decided back then to pursue environmental protection and I chose this direction," he says.
It has not been an easy life. A major Beijing's biggest bird dealers discovered he was under scrutiny by Silva and fought back.
"He assembled several of his accomplices who confronted me and beat me up," Silva recalls. He says he reported to the police but those responsible were not brought to justice.
He has also seen the departure of his army of volunteers over the years. This work demands stealth and sleepless nights. Silva says not many are prepared for the difficult β and sometimes dangerous job.
"This is my full-time commitment," he says. "I treat it as a mission because if you want to solve this big problem, you must devote yourself wholeheartedly. You can't do it part-time."
He says donations pays for some of the costs β over 100,000 yuan annually β but funding has declined because of the economic situation.
So he has developed new ways to hunt the hunters.
He studies aerial photos to find the paths created by the poachers. He charts these against the birds' migratory routes and looks for areas where they may rest. The aerial views can even show netting setups which can catch scores of small birds during darkness.
"Siberian rubythroats and bluethroats command a high price," Silva says. "In big cities like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to keep birds are now quite wealthy."
While there are environmental regulations in place, Silva argues the penalties to deter the activity do not outweigh the financial benefits of catching and selling songbirds.
Keeping a caged bird was β and for some generations in China, still is β a status symbol. This originates from the Qing dynasty. Wealthy individuals would build ornate bamboo cages to display their birds.
This custom that continues mainly among retired men in their 60s or 70s. Silva says older Chinese people don't realise they are committing a wildlife crime, or understand that numerous birds were killed in a trap for them to purchase a caged bird.
"This generation often lacked enough to eat growing up. Now with some disposable income, they have adopted the habit and custom of caging birds," he says. "China developed so fast, there was no time to educate people about ecology. Once people's attitudes are formed, they're really hard to change."
Disrupted
Along a riverside path in Beijing, a trader has several small cages with chirping songbirds.
A separate individual is positioned near a local market holding a bird cage shrouded in a dark cloth. He informs passers-by quietly that his songbird is rare, worth about 1900 yuan.
This is a glimpse of an traditional side of the city where small unofficial traders have created their own market.
The path by the river extends over several miles and on a typical day, there were people looking at everything from old trinkets to false teeth.
We were told that protected birds could be bought in a small park. The location was not concealed.
Loud music played from a speaker under the low trees where a group of elderly ladies were performing a traditional dance. Close by several men, all in their later years, had congregated with bird cages β some had two or three in their hands. Most were covered in dark cloth.
But today there would be no transactions because the police had appeared. They were interviewing the bird owners and taking names. Unyielding, one man said he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his